Manufacturing electric file bits with tungsten carbide creates long-lasting and extra-durable bits.
We asked Richard Hurter, marketing director for electric file manufacturer Kupa, to tell us more about the bits they produce on-site at their Buena Park, Calif., facility. Namely, what makes carbide bits so special? “Carbide bits have little blades (like microscopic razor blades) that cut at an angle. Unlike bits with a sandpaper-like surface that grind, carbide bits actually shave the acrylic, which means less pressure is required. This results in less dust, and since there’s less friction, there’s less heat,” he explains. “Since tungsten carbide is one of the hardest materials available, the bits last a long time, and if the shaft is carbide, they won’t bend or got out of round if you drop them.” The other key to Kupa’s bits, says Hurter, is that the head and the shaft are ground concentric to one another, so when placed in the electric file, there is no “out of round” vibration, which is easier on the tech, as well as the client.
Archive for the ‘Women’s’ Category
Carbide Bit Basics
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010Mastering Colored Gel Fills
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010Colored gels are gaining in popularity as of late, but if you’re like many other techs you might be wondering how you can better improve your fill techniques to keep clients coming back for more. Amy Becker of Masterworks Innovations explains how she does a colored gel fill.
1. Start by removing the colored gel only, either by e-file (medium grit) or with an 80- to 100-grit file, and prepare the natural nail for a fill.
2. Dust and apply gel adhesive and base gel. Cure the base gel, and then apply clear gel to fill the outgrowth and cure.
3. Shape the nail with a 180-grit file followed by a 180/280-grit foam file. Do not file the length of the nail until after gel color and sealant are applied.
4. Pick up a small amount of gel and wipe it off in the middle of the nail. Then with what is left on the brush, apply the colored gel around the cuticle area and cap the free edge. This will prevent the gel color from bleeding into the cuticle.
5. Once the perimeter of the nail is covered, feather your brush through the entire body of the nail on all five fingers. Smooth them over with one or two more strokes before putting them into the light to cure. Repeat this process on the other hand. Then apply a second coat the same as the first. Apply the sealant using the same application techniques as step four.
6. File the length after the sealant is cured and the aspersion layer is removed to keep the nail from looking rounded at the free edge. After you have filed the length and shape, lightly use an electric file on the underside of the free edge. Keep the e-file at a 90-degree angle so you only buff the edge and do not remove the nail from underneath. This will help prevent separation of the gel enhancement from the natural nail.
*Note: Colored gel should always be applied over a gel overlay. If you apply colored gel over a natural nail, you could unnecessarily over-file the natural nail when you fill the nails.
How to Use Kupa Bits for Backfills
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010
Kupa Inc., a leading manufacturer of electric files and carbide bits, has created a new bit that bakes backfilling easier and faster. This custom one-of-a-kind design comes in K Cut (Silver) and Z Coat, which is a gold-plated finish. The barrel carbide bit is wider at the top, allowing the technician precision cutting with less pressure.
1. After prepping the nail with the VP Safety bit, use a carbide barrel bit at an angle and thin all 10 tips so your cutting will be easier.
2. With the inverted backfill bit at an angle, cut your smile lines using one full swiping motion from side to side.
3. Re-apply your white tip product.
4. Apply your pink or clear product to the base of the nail, meeting up with the fresh white you just applied.
E-file Extraordinaire
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010Practice makes perfect when it comes to using an electric file in your nail services. If you’re just starting out, it’s best to practice the below techniques on a tip that’s glued to the end of a dowel rod or rounded clothes pin first, advises industry veteran Vicki Peters of Vicki Peters Inc. You can them work up to practicing on yourself, then finally to working on clients. Peters also offers these safety tips:
> Compensate for pressure with speed. If you feel that you need to press harder, increase the speed of the machine and reduce the pressure you apply to the nail.
> Lift the bit frequently when filing to avoid causing heat build-up.
> Keep bit straight up (90 degree angle) and down when shortening the free edge to avoid skipping, which can cause the product to weaken and break down.
> Turn the client’s hand, along with the bit, to file around the sidewalls and cuticle area.
> Suggested speeds: Surface work: fast; Backfills: medium; Cuticle work: slow.
Our Experts
Lysa Comfort, international educator
Steve Wallace, Medicool
Vicki Peters, Vicki Peters Inc.
Doing a Backfill
Use a French-filled diamond bit, carbide straight barrel bit, or specialized backfill bit during this process. Backfills should only be done along a client’s natural free edge, says electric file expert Lysa Comfort.
1. If you’re a beginner, then use the inside portion of a nail form and a pencil to draw a smile line. Use this line as a guide for where to drill on the nail.
2. Using a speed between 5,000 to 9,000 RPM, position the hand at a 10-degree angle and cut a new smile line. White acrylic dulls in color as it ages. The new white tip powder is whiter and will make a strip of lighter white if you don’t remove the entire white tip when doing your backfill. Remove a minimum of 80% to 90% pink and 60% to 70% white.
3. Instead of a diamond barrel bit, you can also use a carbide straight barrel bit. If you use a carbide straight barrel, start at the right side of the nail and go toward the left side, holding the bit parallel to the nail. Hold the electric file securely without too much pressure on the nail. Don’t cut too deep. You can go back over the area if your cut isn’t deep enough.
Smoothing Calluses on Feet
Electric filing on calluses works best when the client’s feet are dry. (If you’re also doing a pedicure, you can do it either before or after using the e-file, making sure the feet are dry either way.) Use paper sanding bands or specialty pedicure bits for callus removal; remember to periodically stop to and check for any heat and discomfort. Products named below are from Medicool.
1. Sanitize the feet with an alcohol sanitizer. Using a large callus cone on a speed between 3,000 to 5,000 RPM, remove the dry, dead skin from the bottom of the feet. When smoothing thick calluses, you may need to increase the speed slightly.
2. Use the same tool to remove the dry, dead skin from the sides of the feet. Move the tool in a circular motion for best results.
3. Work your way around to the heels, concentrating on the areas with the most dry, dead skin. If there are cracks in the heels, remove the top layer of dead skin, then use a small foot cone to remove the area in and around the cracks. The cracks should disappear.
4. Use a long sapphire tool to remove dead skin from the sides of the toenails. This tool may also be used to clean under long toenails.
5. For thick or flaky nails, use a small foot cone on a speed around 3,000 RPM. Move the bit across the nail as you would to shape an acrylic or gel nail to reach desired thickness and shape.
6. Use the edge of a sapphire disc to shape the free edges of the toenails. Use light pressure; it will seal the nail as it trims and shapes.
Surface Shaping
All of your surface shaping can be done with an electric file. Only the sides and tips require you to hand file. To get a smooth surface, graduate your grits with smoother bits.
1. With your hand file, shape the free edges, sides, and undersides of all 10 nails.
2. With the coarsest bit you plan on using, shape the surface of the nails on a speed between 12,000 to 15,000 RPM. Rock the client’s nail to meet the bit as you angle your bit for contouring the sides and tip areas. Be sure to check the profile and all angles of the nails before moving on to the next nail. Be sure to file every section of the nail before switching to the next smoothest bit or you will see scratches. Remove the dust between the different bits. (Define a routine so you perform the same steps from nail to nail for a consistent shape.)
3. With a slightly slower speed, use a safety bit for work near the eponychium. Start on the right side of the nail and refine the groove wall, holding the bit so 50% of the bit is making contact with the nail. Contour the shape toward the natural nail. Curve your bit around with your wrist, and angle the nails to meet the bit. Check the profile of the eponychium area before moving on to the next nail.
4. Remove the dust with a clean, sanitary nail brush. Switch to a smoother bit and repeat Step 2. Continue to graduate your bits for a smoother surface.
Natural Nail Work
Use a natural nail bit, a natural nail rubber synthetic bit, an extra-fine diamond bit, extra-fine sanding band, or a silicone bit gently on a natural nail. Use buffing oils sparingly, Peters cautions, as they can seep up the neck of the bit into the hand piece and cause damage. Before polishing or using gel sealants, make sure to remove all of the oil for better application. When using buffing creams, make sure to rub it into the nail first; if you don’t, the cream will fly off of the nail and leave the bit spinning. You can also apply the buffing cream to the bit first, Peter says. Remember that sanding bands and cotton buffers can’t be disinfected, so throw them away after one use.
1. Gently push back the cuticle, exposing any dead excess skin. Using the bit and buffing oil, remove any ridges and smooth the nail’s texture. Use a speed between 2,500 to 6,000 RPM. Keep the bit flat to the nail. Holding it horizontally, move it from one lateral fold to the other. Remove the dead excess skin by circling over it with a bit.
2. Use an extra-fine sanding band along with the oil. Hold the bit horizontally going from one lateral fold to the other. Come up on the eponychium, keeping the bit flat.
3. Use a cotton buffer along with a buffing cream in a circular motion to bring the nail to a high shine. Massage cuticle oil into the nail.
Tips & Tricks On…
High-Shine Buffing
After filing to a smooth finish, enhancements can be shined with a buffing bit and buffing cream. Lift the bit frequently and don’t apply too much pressure; these bits can heat up quickly and burn your client. If your buffing does not produce a high gloss that means you didn’t file the nails smooth enough before buffing.
Shortening Nails
Shortening the nail should be done with a coarse barrel bit and by holding the nail with a firm grip. With the bit at a 90-degree angle on a medium speed, place the bit to the tip of the nail touching the center of the bit to the tip to shorten. Using a medium or coarse barrel bit, hold it to the tip of the nail at a 90-degree angle, making sure you have a firm grip. Use a faster RPM and shorten the nail.
Eponychium Work
Use a rounded tipped bit and hold it flat to the nail. Change the angle of how you hold the bit (keeping it flat to the nail) to get into the sidewalls.
Fills
A fill or rebalance can be done in a variety of ways. Some techs prefer to reduce the entire nail and apply a new layer of product, while some prefer to simply thin the product at the growth area. Either can be done with any shaped rounded tipped bit. Don’t touch the natural nail when filing; focus on the product as you reduce it at the eponychium area.
Shaping C-Curves
Any size barrel-shaped or tapered bits are best to use under the free edge to refine C-curves. Choose the size of the bit depending on the size of the underside of the C-Curve you are refining.
Finishing
Graduating grits is the key to finishing nails without leaving scratches. Graduate bits from coarser to finer as with hand-held abrasives. Removing the dust each time bits are changed will make the final results smoother so you do not scratch in the previous grit with smoother grit.
I'm having a hard time control my electric file. I'm scared of cutting the client or having the drill kick under. How do I get more comfortable? I'm having a hard time control my electric file. I'm scared of cutting the client or having the drill kick under. How do I get more comfortable?
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010Mary Metscaviz: I suggest you use bits with safety edges when first getting used to an electric file. Use a barrel bit with a safety edge for the top of the nail and for shortening, and then use a redband tapered cone for around the cuticle. If your file does wrap around the finger these bits will not cut the skin, so although you may both be scared, no one will get hurt. Place the tapered bit directly on your hand and you’ll see that it will not cut the skin. I suggest the cone bit manufactured by Brasseler USA. I use only carbide bits and have found I have more control with them.
First practice on your nails. This is the best way to learn. Remember to let your bit do the work and do not apply much pressure. Always use cuticle oil to minimize the friction as this will keep the heat down. Set your speed low and get familiar with the bit.
Follow the speed directions that come with your electric file. If it has lights that indicate speed, I suggest you usually use the second light and, when taking down bulk or length, use the third light. Remember to keep your bit parallel to the nail. Lay the bit on the nail by the sidewall and go up and over the top and down the other side.
I cannot stress enough to let your bit do the work rather than applying too much pressure. Pressure will create heat and can damage the nail plate. Lift your drill up off the nail plate after each pass across the nail.After much practice and hopefully a class on proper drill usage (or at least a video), you’ll be able to move onto other bits.
Go to shows and ask the instructors to use the drill on you and explain what they are doing and why they are using each bit. Do not give up. Electric files are wonderful tools.
How Do I Advise Clients To Care For Their Nails That Were Damaged By Improper Drill Use?
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010Advise these clients to start on a natural nail care regimen. Start by having them visit you once a week to receive a manicure so you can personally monitor the progress of their nails. Use gentle care when servicing the damaged nails and send them home with instructions and products for home maintenance between appointments.
Put them on a nightly routine of massaging in a quality cuticle oil and/or cream. Also have them apply a gentle nail strengthening treatment or even just a fast-drying top coat daily or every other day. The frequent application of a strengthener or top coat will keep your clients more aware of the condition of their nails as well as giving the nails some extra strength and durability. The cuticle oil will condition both their nails and cuticles to help bring them back to good health.Advise them to always keep color polish on their nails, even if it is a very light shade. The polish will act as a type of “armor” for their nails and protect them in their fragile state.
Learning the ABCs of Electric Filing
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010For more than two decades, nail technicians have used electric files for all types of services. Despite their wide use, there hasn’t been consistent or widely available information or education on their proper use in salons. It’s no wonder they’ve been misused so often, says Lysa Comfort, electric file division director and international educator for EZ Flow Nail Systems.
In recent years, however, electric files have gained new ground. More than ever, manufacturers and nail technicians are aware of the importance of knowing how to properly use such a tool. Without proper education and practice, a nail technician can seriously damage a client’s nails and, potentially, permanently damage the nail matrix and inhibit nail growth.
“Electric files still get a bad rap from nail techs who use them improperly, from techs who don’t use them and fear them, and from the myths that some nail techs still insist on believing and propagating,” says Barb Wetzel, a LaGrange, Ill.-based independent educator and founder of NailSplash.com, an educational website.“
Sometimes our industry is its own worst enemy.” Although those words may hold some truth, it’s also a fact that the industry is stepping up its efforts and attempting to make nail professionals as skilled as possible with these instruments.
With more and more salons vying for the public’s attention, proper education is one good way of putting yourself ahead of the rest. And we’re not just talking about getting nail techs more education. You also need to keep your clients in mind. “Educate clients by explaining the benefits of using the electric file,” suggests Gari-Dawn Tingler, director of education for EZ Flow Nail Systems. “Let them know why electric files can be a good choice.”
Once you’re well versed in electric file use, you’ll be able to speak with confidence and authority to clients as well. After all, there’s nothing worse than a nail tech who can’t explain what she’s doing to a client or seems unsure.
If you encounter a client who’s had a bad experience at another salon, it’s all the more reason to show her you know what you’re doing.
Only with proper education will electric files be able to beat the bad rap they’ve gotten in recent years. It may sound a bit contrived, but knowledge really is power.
Vicki Peters Demonstrates the VP Safety Bit
Salı, Mart 9th, 2010
VP Safety Bit
Vicki Peters has redesigned the popular VP Safety bit for full nail contouring and cuticle work. The VP Safety bit is no longer a short bit for cuticle work only. It has been redesigned into a longer tapered bit with a rounded tip that can be used for safe beveling at the cuticle area, nail prep work, and now shaping the entire nail.
1. Use the bit flat to the nail for full contact and remove the gel shine sealant prior to the start of your fill.
2. For nail preparation during a fill, use the bit around the cuticle area at an angle to bevel the artificial product flush to the natural nail (for a no-line fill).
3. Use the bit almost flat to the nail and bevel the sides of the nails for a contoured surface shape.
4. Using the bit almost flat to the nail at the cuticle area, refine your product to the perfect graduation for a lift free enhancement.
The Hottest Summer Fashion Trends for 2010
Cuma, Mart 5th, 2010Stay Inspired with the Lastest Styles
Feminine and chic describe the 2010 summer fashion season. Boho chic, vintage charm, earthy colors and contemporary lines are the latest in summer style.
As the warmer weather begins to emerge so do the most up-to-date and latest 2010 summer fashion trends. This summer season the focus is on relaxed style with a fashionable and chic twist.
Vintage Inspired Style has Plenty of Summer Appeal
There is no better time than the summer season to explore unique and one of a kind vintage fashions finds or a variety of vintage inspired styles. One of a kind t-shirts, stylish tank tops, printed blouses, funky belts or a pair of must-have brand name jeans can be found at eclectic and local shops or online stores that specialize in vintage fashion.
For authentic vintage styles and trends try going to auction houses, antique stores and boutiques. These places will often have one of a kind or rare pieces that can add some pizzazz to any outfit. Jewelry, jackets, vests, and dresses can most often be found with minimal wear and tear and enjoyed all season long.
If vintage inspired is preferred look for fitted jackets, fish tailed skirts, contemporary styled dresses with simple clean lines, v-neck tank tops, scoop neck t-shirts and flared jeans. Complete the vintage inspired look by pairing the outfit wedge styled heels or peep-toe pumps, a pair of dew drop earrings, a pendant necklace or crystal embellished watch.
Boho Chic Rules the Fashion Runway this Summer Season
Flowing trousers, fish-tailed skirts and long scoop neck blouses are going to be hot trends for the summer season. Loose, flowing clothing that is made from fine, light weight material is a great way to stay cool and trendy when the weather is exceptionally hot and muggy.
The boho style includes elements of vintage, hippie and gypsy inspired trends including skirts that sway; pants that flare, v-neck or scoop neck t shirts, comfortable tunics and plenty of rich colorful jewelry.
The key to making the bohemian style look fashionable and trendy is to carefully layer clothing in such a way that it compliments the figure rather than hides it. Choose one bohemian styled item and wear it with a fitted item. Pair flowing pants with a fitted top, a gypsy styled skirt with a snug tank top; or a loose and flowing blouse with a pair of chic black leggings. Finish off the bohemian look with some gold and silver bangle bracelets, chandelier earrings or a long pendant necklace.
Warm Earthy Colors, Muted Tones & Edgy Patterns
This summer the fashion trends are complimented by earth inspired colors including moss green, rustic red, golden yellow and earthy orange. Muted colors such as cream, off-white, grey; black and brown complete the color palette this summer season.
In addition to the subtle yet sublime color scheme there will also be a variety of edgy and awe inspiring patterns, prints and embellishments to clothing and accessories this summer season.
The summer season is gearing up to be incredibly fashionable and edgy with a return to earth inspired color schemes as well as vintage and bohemian inspired fashion trends.
Ways to Wear a Women's Navy Blazer
Cuma, Mart 5th, 2010How to Use a Wardrobe Staple All Year Long
There’s nothing that beats a well-fitting suit jacket for adding instant class to an outfit. Here are ways to use this classic fashion piece in warm and cool weather.
A fitted navy blazer is a great investment piece for any woman’s wardrobe. The classic navy blazer is an extremely versatile fashion item that can be worn all year long, for formal and casual events.
A Navy Blazer at the Office
This wardrobe staple is at home in a professional setting. Here are some ways to spice up this blank slate.
* Instead of a plain white dress shirt under a navy blazer, add some punch with a colorful, patterned button-down top. Try a bright green top with a pearl strand necklace for a fresh spring outfit. For a fall look, try a burnt orange top under the blazer.
* If the dress code allows shorts to be worn in the office, try this trendy look: a pair of structured wool shorts over opaque tights, topped with a navy blazer. Pair with boots for a cozy fall look.
A Navy Blazer on the Weekend
A blazer may seem like the ultimate professional fashion piece, but it works for more casual occasions as well.
* For a casual look for shopping or lunch with friends, treat a navy blazer as a light jacket. Style the same way one would a jean jacket, over t-shirts or tank tops.
* Wear a blazer unbuttoned over a high-waisted a-line skirt that hits above the knee. Wear with a light-colored tank top or tee and add a silk square scarf for a springtime outfit.
A Navy Blazer After Hours
The classic navy blazer can be adapted for a night out on the town by adding a few evening accessories.
* Use a blazer as a polished outer layer over a club or restaurant outfit. The traditional cut of the blazer offers an eye-catching juxtaposition over a graphic or embellished tee, and provides some extra warmth on crisp evenings.
* Punk up a navy blazer by rolling up the sleeves and wearing over skinny jeans and a loose-fitting tee or tank top. Pair with black flats or heels and some metallic bangles.
What to Look for in a Women’s Navy Blazer
Because a well-made blazer can cost as much as hundreds of dollars, be sure to find one that suits your needs perfectly.
* Look for items that are fitted and slim rather than boxy. A slimmer, slightly longer cut is always more flattering than a shorter, wider fit.
* Do not purchase a trendy “oversized” or “cropped” blazer unless the look truly appeals. It is always best to spend on classic silhouettes that will never go out of style.
* Two-button blazers are usually the most versatile.
* Don’t be afraid to invest in a great piece that fits well. It will get plenty of use and the blazer’s classic appeal makes it a wise long-term investment.
